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高效液相色谱法在评估化妆品气垫海绵中的应用
唐毓萍
上海上美化妆品有限公司
摘要:
采用高效液相色谱法测定气垫CC霜中二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯和水杨酸乙基己酯3种防晒剂在海绵内和挤出料体中的含量,通过比较海绵吸附性的差异来评估海绵质量。样品经甲醇提取,以Zor ba x SB C18色谱柱为固定相,柱温30 ℃,以乙腈-水(体积比90∶10)为流动相等度洗脱,经二极管阵列检测器测定。二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯和甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯在1~100 mg·L-1范围内线性良好,水杨酸乙基己酯在5~500 mg·L-1范围内线性关系良好,样品加标回收率为91.8%~95.7%,6组平行样测定得出3种防晒剂峰面积相对标准偏差为1.51%~4.65%。结果表明,丁腈橡胶海绵和聚氨酯海绵对防晒剂的吸附差异较大。丁腈橡胶海绵的吸附率在16.5%~53.4%,而聚氨酯海绵的最大吸附率为7.5%。
关键词:  化妆品  气垫CC霜  防晒剂  高效液相色谱法
DOI:10.13222/j.cnki.dc.2017.05.008
分类号:
基金项目:
Application of high performance liquid chromatography in the evaluation of the air cushion sponge
TANG Yu-ping
Shanghai Chicmax Cosmetic Co.,Ltd.
Abstract:
High performance liquid chromatography(HPLC)was employed to analyze the content of 3 kinds of sunscreening agents, i.e. diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), in the sponge and the material squeezed out of air cushion CC cream. The adsorption of sunscreening agents in sponge was used to evaluate the quality of sponge. The sample was extracted with methanol, then separated by a Zorbax SB C18 chromatographic column(4.6×250 mm, 5 μm) at 30 ºC with acetonitrile-water(90∶10) as mobile phase and determinated by the diode array detector. The linear correlation coefficients were satisfying in the range of 1~100 mg·L-1 for DHHB and EHMC and in the range of 5~500 mg·L-1 for EHS. The recoveries at high and low spiked samples were in the range of 91.8%~ 95.7%. The relative standard deviation for the peak area of each sunscreening agent in six parallel samples was from 1.51% to 4.65%. The results showed that there was significant difference in the adsorption of sunscreening agents between nitrile rubber sponge and polyurethane sponge. The adsorption rate for nitrile rubber spongewas from 16.5% to 53.4%, while the maximum for polyurethane sponge was 7.5%.
Key words:  cosmetics  air cushion CC cream  sunscreening agent  high performance liquid chromatography

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