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日光照射对皮肤的影响和防护技术介绍
姜义华
德之馨(上海)有限公司
摘要:
综述了日光对皮肤衰老的影响因素。日光对于皮肤的衰老不仅仅是因为紫外线,红外线和可见光对于皮肤的早老化现象的生理学机制也逐渐明朗。阐述了在光的生物学效应和光化学效应中,线粒体、自由基、炎症性损伤以及膜受体中芳香烃受体和热感受器的活化等复杂的光老化途径,在此基础上提出了超越传统防晒策略的全波段日光防护技术。
关键词:  防晒化妆品  皮肤光老化  新策略  成分
DOI:10.13222/j.cnki.dc.2017.08.011
分类号:TQ658
基金项目:
Effects of sunlight on skin and an introduction of techniques of sun protection
JIANG Yi-hua
Symrise Shanghai Co., Ltd.
Abstract:
The factors of skin photo-aging have been reviewed. Ultraviolet is not the only reason for skin aging induced by sunlight. The physiological mechanism of skin premature aging induced by infrared and visible light becomes more and more acknowledged. Complex metabolic pathways are involved in the biological and photochemical effects of light to induce sunlight aging, such as over-expression of mitochondria, free radical, inflammation, activation of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) on cell membrane and activation of thermal receptor. On this basis, a technique of full-waveband sunlight protection has been proposed as upgrade of conventional strategy.
Key words:  sunscreen  skin photo-aging  new strategy  ingredient

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