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中药美白组合物的制备及其在化妆品中的应用
赵冰怡
广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司
摘要:
采用君臣佐使的中药配伍理念,研究中药美白组合物的配比、溶剂对美白效果的影响。结果表明,水提组合物较佳质量比为当归∶川芎∶黄芪∶白芨=5∶2∶2∶1,醇提组合物较佳质量比为当归∶川芎∶黄芪∶白芨=3∶4∶2∶1,提取溶剂以体积分数80%~95%的乙醇为宜。以美白度为依据,采用Box- Behnken Design(BBD)响应面优化法,使用Design- Exper t软件优化模拟乙醇体积分数(A)、提取次数(B)、提取时间(C)对中药美白组合物提取工艺的影响,得出单因素间的大小关系为A>C>B,两两因素相互间交互影响大小为AB>BC>AC;较佳提取条件为:乙醇体积分数88%,提取2次,提取时间1.5 h。中药美白霜具有良好的黑色素抑制能力,可增强皮肤亮度,具备良好的美白效果(P <0.05)。
关键词:  中药美白组合物  酪氨酸酶  提取  响应面
DOI:10.13222/j.cnki.dc.2017.12.006
分类号:
基金项目:
Preparation of whitening composite of traditional Chinese medicine and its application in cosmetics
ZHAO Bing-yi
Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetics Technology Co., Ltd.
Abstract:
The effects of the composition of whitening ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and the solvent on the whitening efficacy were studied by using the compatibility concept of “monarch minister assistant and guide” for traditional Chinese medicine. The results showed that, the optimized mass ratio of Angelica, Ligusticum wallichii, Astragalus and Bletilla striata by water extraction was 5∶2∶2∶1 while the optimized mass ratio by alcohol extraction was 3∶4∶2∶1. The 80%~95% ethanol in volume fraction would be suitable as extraction solvent. According to the degree of whiteness, the effects of ethanol volume fraction (A), extraction times (B) and extraction time (C) on the extraction process of the whitening composite of traditional Chinese medicine had been optimized by Box-Behnken Design (BBD) response surface optimization method and Design-Expert software. The response among the three factors was in the sequence of A> C> B and the interaction between the two factors was in the sequence of AB> BC> AC. The optimized extraction conditions were as follows: 88% ethanol in volume fraction, extraction twice and extraction time for 1.5 h. The Chinese medicine whitening cream had good ability to inhibit melanin formation and enhance the skin brightness, indicative of good whitening efficacy (P<0.05).
Key words:  whitening composite of traditional Chinese medicine  tyrosinase  extraction  response surface

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