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积雪草总苷提取物通过抑制皮肤蛋白降解链阻断光老化
吴清华, 丁文欣, 张梦如, 蒋磊, 祁秀秀, 郝卫强
常州工程职业技术学院 检验检测认证学院
摘要:
紫外线诱导的光老化通过活性氧激活 MAPK/AP?1通路,进而上调弹性蛋白酶、IV型胶原酶和基质金属蛋白酶?1(MMP?1),导致弹性纤维、Ⅳ型胶原及Ⅰ/Ⅲ型胶原的连续降解,形成皮肤皱纹、松弛等老化表型。为探索天然植物在多靶点抗光老化中的潜力,本文采用积雪草(Centella asiatica)总苷提取物,分别在体外弹性蛋白酶、IV型胶原酶与MMP?1活性检测体系中进行抑制实验。结果显示,积雪草提取物对弹性蛋白酶的显著高已报道的天然抑制剂表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯,高达84.84±0.50%;对IV型胶原酶亦表现出显著抑制,为50.20±5.79%,而对光老化处理的人永生化角质细胞中的MMP?1活性抑制率达93.44±0.72%。上述三种酶的同步抑制表明,积雪草提取物能够在分子层面阻断光老化的关键降解链,为开发新型天然抗光老化配方提供了实验依据。
关键词:  积雪草提取物  个人护理添加剂  天然活性成分  皮肤光老化
DOI:
分类号:R751.05
基金项目:常州市应用基础研究计划项目(CJ20240020);江苏省高校优秀科技创新团队项目(BK20201164);常州市绿色催化及生物合成重点实验室(CM2024006)
Centella asiatica total glycosides extract blocks photoaging by inhibiting degradation chain of skin proteins
Wu Qing-hua, Ding Wen-xin, Zhang Meng-ru, Jiang Lei, Qi Xiu-xiu, Hao Wei-qiang
School of Inspection and Testing Certification,Changzhou Vocational Institute of Engineering,Changzhou,Jiangsu Province
Abstract:
Ultraviolet-induced photoaging activates the MAPK/AP-1 pathway through reactive oxygen species, thereby upregulating elastase, type IV collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), leading to the continuous degradation of elastic fibers, type IV collagen, and type I/III collagen, and resulting in skin wrinkles, laxity, and other aging phenotypes. To explore the potential of natural plants in multi-target anti-photoaging, this study used total glycosides extract of Centella asiatica for inhibition experiments in in vitro elastase, type IV collagenase, and MMP-1 activity. The results showed that the Centella asiatica total glycosides extract had a significantly higher inhibitory effect on elastase than the reported natural inhibitor epigallocatechin gallate, reaching 84.84 ± 0.50%; it also exhibited significant inhibition on type IV collagenase, at 50.20 ± 5.79%, and inhibited MMP-1 activity in photoaged human immortalized keratinocytes by 93.44 ± 0.72%. The simultaneous inhibition of these three enzymes indicates that the Centella asiatica total glycosides extract can block the key degradation chain of photoaging at the molecular level, providing experimental evidence for the development of new natural anti-photoaging formulations.
Key words:  Centella asiatica extract  personal care additives  natural active ingredient  skin photoaging

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